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Leopard Geckos

Leopard geckos (Eublepharis macularius), are a nocturnal gecko originating from Pakistan, Afghanistan, Western India, and Iran. One feature that the leopard gecko has over most other geckos is the eyelid. They grew between 7-10 inches and come in many different morphs.

Housing
Leopard geckos should be housed singly in a 10 gallon or larger aquarium. Two leopard geckos can live in a 20-30 gallon tank, and three to four in a 40 gallon breeder. Housing multiple females together is fine, but never house more than one male to a tank. One male can be housed with one or more females, but this will usually result in breeding. Do not house opposite sex geckos together until they are close to, if not one year old.

Substrate
Never keep a gecko on sand. You’ll see a lot of companies selling sand that is safe for geckos. This sand is still not safe, and can cause impaction. Newspaper or paper towels are great for juveniles and adults. Ceramic tiles and slate can also be cut to fit the tank. I prefer the ceramic tiles; they look a lot nicer and are fairly simple to clean. Make sure the tiles are not shiny, you want the dull ones.

Hides
Depending on the size of the tank, at least 2 hides should be given. One of these hides should be on the ‘hot’ side of the tank, while the other is on the ‘cold’ side. When housing multiple geckos together, make sure to place a hide for both of them in the tank so there is no problems and fighting.

A moist hide is also important for some geckos. This hide consists of a container with moss, vermiculite, or another substrate that holds humidity in it. This should be misted daily and left on the ‘hot’ side of the tank. This can aid in shedding and also be used for egg laying.

Heat
Heat mats are best for leopard geckos. You do not need a heat light. Heat mats are made by numerous companies, Zoo Med, Exo-Terra, Cobra, and a few others as well. You will also want a controller in order to set the temperature. These heat mats can go over 100F, so setting the temperature between 88-90F is important. Make sure when you purchase a heat mat it is the correct size for your tank, covering around 1/3 of the terrarium. Place the heat mat on one side of the tank, as to distinguish between hot and cold sides.

Feeding
Depending on the size of the gecko, different prey can be used. Juvenile geckos can be fed small crickets and small mealworms, while adults can be fed large crickets, mealworms, and superworms. Make sure the prey is no larger than the space between the eyes. This is especially important with young geckos. Pinkies can be used with breeding females in order to get them up to weight, and waxworms are a great treat, but should be fed sparingly.

Sexing

Determining the sex of an adult leopard gecko is fairly simple. Males have large, visible, pores, while females seem to have nothing. Males are also larger and tend to way more than the female.

Juveniles are a lot tougher to accurately sex. The males pores will generally become noticeable as they start to age, but some will not show until later, causing confusion and sometimes fights due to housing 2 males together.

Breeding
Female and Male Leopard GeckoIn order to breed leopard geckos you must have a male and a female. The female should be over 50 grams, preferably at least 60, before introducing her to the male. The male will generally approach the female and often bite her, with mating usually following this. Make sure to monitor all new introductions as to prevent fights and problems.

Before breeding, make sure you have an incubator setup. Also, make sure there is a moist hide in place in the tank. I use vermiculite in my moist hides. This allows the female to dig a hole in the hide and bury her eggs. Some females will not use this hide, but moist will.

Once the geckos mate, it could be 2-4 weeks before the first clutch of eggs is laid. This first clutch consists of 2 eggs, sometimes 1 depending on the gecko’s age and if she had bred before. They can lay 6-8 clutches throughout the breeding season, which usually starts in January and will end around August, but can vary in the home. The female will lay the next set of eggs every 2-4 weeks as well, and she does not have to mate with the male for this to happen. Females will store the sperm and use it for the rest of the season.

Comments

Comment from clint Holcombe
Time: August 12, 2008, 5:44 pm

I have a female leo and she stays on the hot spot of the aquarium alot. I know it is because i do not have a top on the aquarium to bring up the temp. I believe the temp stays around 70 -75 degrees. How can I elevate the temp to where it needs to be? and Humidity?

Comment from admin
Time: August 16, 2008, 9:07 am

Clint, you need to get a thermostat to help regulate temperatures. The surface temperature needs to be 88-90F, which can be measured with either a temp gun, or a thermometer with a probe.

Thermostats are costly, but some companies make cheaper ones. ZooMed makes the Rheostat, but with purchasing one of these you will want to keep an eye on the temperature for awhile, as you cannot pick a degree to set it to. Instead, you are picking higher or lower.

Leopard geckos do not need humidity. They are from a rocky, arid environment. A small tupperware container with moist pete moss is a great way to aid in shedding. You want to keep humidity to a minimum in the rest of the cage, as too much humidity can lead to respiratory infections.

Feel free to join the rest of us over at The Reptile File (http://www.TheReptileFile.com), we can help with any of your concerns.

Goodluck,

Iguana Salad

Comment from julia
Time: November 9, 2008, 6:14 am

do you need to keep the moist area on the hot or cold side of the tank? i am new to this thanks

Comment from admin
Time: November 9, 2008, 10:23 am

It is best to keep the moist hide on the cold side. If left on the warm side, the moist hide will create humidity, and dry out quicker.

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