Housing
Since Tokay Gecko’s are arboreal, they require a tall terrarium, rather than long. A 20 gallon tall would be suitable for a single gecko, but larger is always better. Exo-Terra and ZooMed both make glass terrariums that open from the front with screen lids. These are great for Tokay’s, the 24”x24”x24” Exo-Terra would easily house a pair. Like other geckos, Tokay males cannot be housed together. Make sure to monitor female tokay’s that are housed together because even they have fights.

Substrate
The best substrate to use is one that will help hold humidity. Cypress mulch, Repti-Bark, and other soil-like mixtures are some decent choices. Cypress mulch can be purchased fairly cheap at any local home improvement/gardening store.

Hides
Tokay’s are arboreal, so vines and leaves are the best addition to their environment. Make sure the vines are strong enough to hold up the Tokay, and will not cause it to fall off. These also must support the weight of the gecko jumping back and forth, so the thicker vines are often better, as well as heavier leaves.

Temperature and Humidity
During the day the temperature should be between 80-90F. This can be achieved with heat lamps above the tank. Overnight the terrarium can drop to 70-80F without a problem, so turning off the light at night and allowing the temperature to drop is okay.

Humidity should be around 70%, and should not drop below 50%. This can be maintained by misting the terrarium a few times a day. Using a hygrometer to measure humidity is important. I recommend a digital one, as they tend to be more accurate.

Feeding
Tokay’s eat insects, which can include mealworms, superworms, crickets, locusts, and other feeders. Make sure to gutload all feeders 24 hours prior to feeding it to the Tokay, this way the gecko will get the most nutrition out of the food. Dusting with calcium 2-3 times a week should also be done.

Sexing
Sexing Tokay Gecko’s is fairly simple with adults. Males have preanal pores, while females do not. These pores are arranged in a “V” shape. Running fingers over the pores will allow one to feel the wax. If there is no wax or pores, then the gecko is a female. It can take up to a year to properly sex a Tokay Gecko. Some males will not show themselves until this time, but after a year if there are no pore then the gecko is most likely a female.

Housing
Leopard geckos should be housed singly in a 10 gallon or larger aquarium. Two leopard geckos can live in a 20-30 gallon tank, and three to four in a 40 gallon breeder. Housing multiple females together is fine, but never house more than one male to a tank. One male can be housed with one or more females, but this will usually result in breeding. Do not house opposite sex geckos together until they are close to, if not one year old.

Substrate
Never keep a gecko on sand. You’ll see a lot of companies selling sand that is safe for geckos. This sand is still not safe, and can cause impaction. Newspaper or paper towels are great for juveniles and adults. Ceramic tiles and slate can also be cut to fit the tank. I prefer the ceramic tiles; they look a lot nicer and are fairly simple to clean. Make sure the tiles are not shiny, you want the dull ones.

Hides
Depending on the size of the tank, at least 2 hides should be given. One of these hides should be on the ‘hot’ side of the tank, while the other is on the ‘cold’ side. When housing multiple geckos together, make sure to place a hide for both of them in the tank so there is no problems and fighting.

A moist hide is also important for some geckos. This hide consists of a container with moss, vermiculite, or another substrate that holds humidity in it. This should be misted daily and left on the ‘hot’ side of the tank. This can aid in shedding and also be used for egg laying.

Heat
Heat mats are best for leopard geckos. You do not need a heat light. Heat mats are made by numerous companies, Zoo Med, Exo-Terra, Cobra, and a few others as well. You will also want a controller in order to set the temperature. These heat mats can go over 100F, so setting the temperature between 88-90F is important. Make sure when you purchase a heat mat it is the correct size for your tank, covering around 1/3 of the terrarium. Place the heat mat on one side of the tank, as to distinguish between hot and cold sides.

Feeding
Depending on the size of the gecko, different prey can be used. Juvenile geckos can be fed small crickets and small mealworms, while adults can be fed large crickets, mealworms, and superworms. Make sure the prey is no larger than the space between the eyes. This is especially important with young geckos. Pinkies can be used with breeding females in order to get them up to weight, and waxworms are a great treat, but should be fed sparingly.

Sexing

Determining the sex of an adult leopard gecko is fairly simple. Males have large, visible, pores, while females seem to have nothing. Males are also larger and tend to way more than the female.

Juveniles are a lot tougher to accurately sex. The males pores will generally become noticeable as they start to age, but some will not show until later, causing confusion and sometimes fights due to housing 2 males together.

Breeding
In order to breed leopard geckos you must have a male and a female. The female should be over 50 grams, preferably at least 60, before introducing her to the male. The male will generally approach the female and often bite her, with mating usually following this. Make sure to monitor all new introductions as to prevent fights and problems.

Before breeding, make sure you have an incubator setup. Also, make sure there is a moist hide in place in the tank. I use vermiculite in my moist hides. This allows the female to dig a hole in the hide and bury her eggs. Some females will not use this hide, but moist will.

Once the geckos mate, it could be 2-4 weeks before the first clutch of eggs is laid. This first clutch consists of 2 eggs, sometimes 1 depending on the gecko’s age and if she had bred before. They can lay 6-8 clutches throughout the breeding season, which usually starts in January and will end around August, but can vary in the home. The female will lay the next set of eggs every 2-4 weeks as well, and she does not have to mate with the male for this to happen. Females will store the sperm and use it for the rest of the season.